Ascension
Island, South Atlantic Ocean
The
small island of Ascension (Topographic
Map)
lies in the South Atlantic (7 56'S, 14 22'W) some 750 miles
Northwest of the Island of Saint Helena and covers an area
of 34 square miles.
The weather is warm all year
round rising to a maximum of 30 degrees C. during the
months of January, February and March.
The breeze of the South East Trade Winds moderates these
temperatures. Rainfall is variable and hard to predict.
The island is volcanic, and its lower slopes and Western
side are made up of volcanic ash with little vegetation.
Green Mountain, which rises to a height of 3,000 feet at
the centre of the island, is lush and green.
The vast majority of goods and food for the island is supplied
by sea from the UK and South Africa. There is a very limited
supply of fresh produce.
Despite its small size there is a
lot to do on the island. There are numerous walks, the
opportunity to go scuba diving, and play a wide variety
of sports. These include football, tennis, squash and golf
(albeit on officially one of the worst golf courses in
the world). Sea fishing is also very popular.

It was discovered by the Portuguese seafarer Joao da Nova Castelia
in 1501, (although this visit apparently went unrecorded) and
"found again" two years later on Ascension Day by
Alphonse d'Albuquerque, who gave the island its name. Being
dry and barren it was of little use to the East Indies fleets.
So it remained uninhabited until Emperor Napoleon I was incarcerated
on St Helena in 1815 when a small British naval garrison was
stationed on Ascension to deny it to the French. The island
was designated "HMS Ascension", a "Stone sloop
of War of the smaller class". By
Napoleon's death in 1821 Ascension had become a victualling
station and sanatorium for ships engaged in the suppression
of the slave trade around the West African coast. In 1823
the island was taken over by the Royal Marines. It remained
under the supervision of the British Board of Admiralty until
1922, when it was made a Dependency of St Helena by Royal
Letters Patent.
From 1922 until 1964 the island was managed
by the Eastern Telegraph Company (renamed Cable and Wireless
in 1934).
In 1964, in view of plans to establish
BBC and Composite Signal Organisation (CSO) stations, an Administrator
was appointed.
MILITARY
During the Second World War the United States Government,
by arrangement with Her Majesty's Government, built an airstrip
"Wideawake Field". From 1943-45 over 25,000 US
planes transited Ascension Island destined for the North
African, Middle East and European theatres of war. In 1957
a US presence was re-established and the airhead was enlarged
and is now also the Southeast tracking station of the USAF
Eastern Test Proving Ground. In 1967 a NASA tracking station
was built but has since closed down.
Wideawake
Airfield, Ascension Island.
There is a weekly USAF air service
between Ascension Island, Antigua and Patrick Air Force Base
in Florida. In 1982 the island was re-garrisoned by British
Forces to support operations in the Falkland Islands. Ascension
remains the intermediate stop for UK military flights between
the United Kingdom and the Falklands. As such it is one of
the main gateways to the outside world for Saint Helenians
who travel to and from St Helena on the Royal Mail Ship (RMS) "Saint
Helena".
COMMUNICATIONS
Many of the organisations on the Island are involved in communications
in one form or another, although the new government has been
stimulating the development of new businesses to serve the
local community. At one time Ascension Island was a main relay
point of the coaxial submarine cable system laid between the
United Kingdom, Portugal and South Africa with links to South
America and West Africa.” This cable system no longer
operates. Instead, Cable and Wireless plc operate an international
satellite telecommunications service and an internal telephone
service.
In 1967 the BBC opened its Atlantic Relay Station broadcasting
to Africa and South America.
The European Space Agency maintain and operate the "Ariane" Earth
Station on the Island.
The Americans operate satellite tracking
stations and other facilities.
In addition to the Royal Mail Ship (see
above), there is a monthly shipping service from the United
Kingdom by British Ministry of Defence chartered merchant
navy vessels. An American supply ship calls about four times
a year. And the island also welcomes passenger cruise ships
and fishing vessels working Ascension's rich fishing grounds.
PHYSICAL
Ascension is a rocky peak of purely volcanic origin (44 distinct
craters - all "dormant", i.e. not "extinct")
with its base just west of the mid-Atlantic ridge. Much of
the island is covered by basalt lava flows and cinder cones.
The last major volcanic eruption took place about 600 years
ago. The highest point (Green Mountain) at some 2817 ft is
covered with lush vegetation which, with each rainy season
is increasingly spreading throughout the island. There is
a small farm near the peak which used to produce vegetables
and pork but the “Red Lion” farm building has
now sadly fallen into disrepair. The Ascension Island Government
Conservation Department is now using some of the former farm
land as a nursery to promote the development of endemic species
of flora.”
The climate on Ascension Island is subtropical.
CLIMATE
Temperatures at sea level are 68-88F and about 10F less on
Green Mountain. Showers occur throughout the year with slightly
heavier rains in the January-April period.
ANIMALS & BIRDS
The island is renowned for green turtles, which come ashore
on the beaches from January to May to lay their eggs. It is
also a breeding place for the sooty tern, or "wideawake",
large numbers of which settle on the south-western coastal
area (the "fairs") every tenth month to hatch their
eggs. Other offshore nesting seabirds are boobies, Ascension
frigate birds, Boatswain birds, petrels and noddies. Land
birds comprise canaries, mynahs, francolins, waxbills and
sparrows. The island is also home to feral donkeys, sheep,
rabbits, two species of lizards, land crabs, rats and mice.
All wild life except feral rats, mice and rabbits is protected
by law. The ocean surrounding the island abounds with shark,
wahoo, barracuda, tuna, bonita, sailfish, marlin and other
game fish.
SEABIRD RESTORATION PROJECT
Over the last few years a major project has been carried out
to increase areas where the island’s seabirds nest.
This project, funded by the Foreign & Commonwealth Office
with support from the Ascension Island Government and the
Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, focused on the
eradication of feral cats which predated on the nesting birds
to a significant degree. The eradication programme has been
successful and more seabird nest are being observed. A domestic
cat population still exists although there are strict controls
over the importation of cats to the island.
POPULATION
There is no indigenous population. The inhabitants of the
island comprise the employees and families of the organisations
working on the island. The population is about 1,100 - mostly
Saint Helenians but with 200 United Kingdom and 150 US citizens.
ORGANISATIONS OPERATING ON
ASCENSION
The BBC established an Atlantic Relay Station in 1966 to improve
coverage of short- wave broadcasts to Africa and South America.
In 1997 the BBC appointed Merlin Communications International
to operate its Ascension facilities, including the island's
power and fresh water plants.
Cable and Wireless plc have been present
on the island since 1898 (until 1934 known as the Eastern
Telegraph Company). The Senior Manager was responsible for
day-to-day running of the Island's affairs from 1922 until
the first Administrator was appointed in 1964. C&W provide
the majority of the Island's telecommunication services.
Composite Signals Organisation (CSO) have
been on the island since 1966.
The United States Air Force operates the Ascension Auxiliary
Airfield ("Wideawake"), leased from the British
Government in 1956, and the southernmost tracking station
of the US Government Eastern Test Range. The USAF Contractor,
Computer Sciences Raytheon (CSR) manages and operates all
the USAF facilities on the island.
The MOD facility “The Ascension
Island Base” – comes under the control of the
Commander, British Forces in the South Atlantic who is based
on the Falkland Islands. The base exists to maintain an
air link between the United Kingdom and the Falklands. The
MOD has subcontracted some operations to civilian contractors,
including Interserve Ltd which maintains MOD
facilities; SERCO Ltd manages the airport; Sodexho providing
catering and domestic facilities. A former feature of Ascension
was the permanently moored 70,000 tonne tanker offshore run
by the Maersk Co (UK) which served as a bulk fuel facility
but in December 2002 this was replaced by an on-shore Petroleum
Supply Depot under MOD management.
The provision of public services on Ascension
has undergone major reorganisations in recent years. Ascension
Island Services (which was set up in 1984) was replaced in
2000 by the Ascension Island Government and a statutory body,
Ascension Island Works & Services Agency. The Ascension
Island Council came into existence following the first general
election on Ascension on 1st November 2002. In April 2004
the Works & Services Agency was closed and a Public
Works and Commercial Services Department was established
within the administrative arm of government.
Policing on the island is provided by the
Ascension detachment of the St Helena Police Force and banking
facilities are provided by the Bank of St Helena.
SETTLEMENTS
There are five settlements on the Island. Georgetown the
administrative capital and port; Two Boats village about
three miles inland and situated at 600 feet is a residential
area; Traveler's Hill is where the MOD garrison lives; Cat
Hill is the US Base area and there is the Residency, the
Red Lion and some cottages on Green Mountain. There is an
Anglican church, St Mary's in Georgetown, a small Roman
Catholic church, the "Grotto",
and the remains of a mosque (which served Moslems from West
Africa in the early days of occupation).